Exploring Cabot Trail on Cape Breton (October 10 - 15, 2020)

 I had time booked off in anticipation of my sister, Karin, her husband, 2 daughters and a fiancée visiting over Thanksgiving which sadly didn't materialize... we all know why. Instead we kept the days off and decided to try out a smaller motorhome for size. Canadream had good Atlantic Bubble deals on so we headed out early on the ferry from Wood Islands to Caribou and picked up a Ford Transit Campervan near the Halifax airport.  

Seals watching us leave on the ferry

Mandatory masks

We took the longer route following the shore from New Glasgow to Antigonish before staying in a friends driveway. Thanks Angie and Tony for letting us staying at the 

Cove Motel & Restaurant , Canso Causeway

We loved being able to stop wherever we
wanted in the van

Cove Motel

Canso Causeway connecting Cape Breton with the rest of Nova Scotia

Rather than taking the normal 1 hour route to Baddeck we drove around via the west shore and stopped everywhere. Took over 6 hours - the campground attendant figured we'd broken down.

An old railway line is now a wonderful trail all along this shore.

Scott attemping to make music at one of the stops

Port Hood Station Provincial Day Park
The boardwalk runs behind the dunes alongside the bullrushes and protected us from crazy winds.

Once we hit the beach the wind was in full force. Rocks standing "above" the sand.

Managed to find some seaglass (for Helga) here.

It happened to be my birthday (59 years young WHAT!!!!) and we found a large piece of cheesecake at the Mabou Farmers Market to share in the evening. Drove out to the Mabou Harbour Mouth which was surprisingly small. Lots of colour, old houses and strange rock formations on the way. Turned around at the lighthouse...down a rickety road...amazing where we could go with the van.

Took the 1/2 hour Glenora Distillery Tour which was fun and informative ($7 each). Not sure who anyone drinks Whiskey though.  God awful taste. 

Seems to have a market though  and it's a beautiful place :-)

They offer overnight stays, meals and some specialty weekends as well.

By the time we got to Inverness the wind was really coming up and rain was coming down. Looked like a beautiful beach and boardwalk to be visitied again.

Our second night was at the Baddeck Cabot Trail Campground. Great spot and some particularly spectacular colours. We plugged in here but didn't use the shower in the van which was a wet bath, meaning that your toilet and that whole shower/bath "room" ( I use the word very loosely) gets wet.

Heading towards Cheticamp we saw some flyfishermen and their dog. It's a very popular fishing area.

He wanted to come say hi but was on the other side of the river

The current was strong but the Flyfisherman was holding his ground

Margaree Harbour - A large Acadian (french speaking) population (also speak English). The scenery reminded us of our visit to the Madelaine Islands. Windswept and beautiful.

Decorative Acadien Lighthouse on the shore for visitors (not an actual lighthouse). 
Featured prominently in the towns tourist information, it was a little hard to find and on a very rickety wharf at the end of a very rickety boardwalk. Hopefully they fix the area up again.
Main attractions in Cheticamp this trip were the bakery (very french, very good) and the
Proud to be Hookers.. rughookers.. shop. 

Cabot Trail National Park is just north of Cheticamp and the roads with spectacular scenery along the coast begins in earnest. You want good brakes and to downshift in many cases to avoid burning them up.

Where this road goes, nobody knows...

The highlight of this trip was a 2.5 hour hike (return) on the Skyline Trail. The trail is well kept and easy to walk on. There are a lot of stairs at the end. There were also ALOT of people on the trail. I don't think 1,000 people would be exaggerting.

Viewed from the road below the trail we could see piles of people walking up top

Largely windswept the trees were stunted.

We thought we'd reached the end of the trail and looked down. These are the 
first stairs, there is another steep set below. Well worth it though.

We were totally shocked that we could see the Madelaine Islands from the top of the trail.

When you reach the last platform below, you've reach the end of the trail.

Taking a breather

Here                                         
Look at the horizon, above "Here", squint and you'll see the windmills at East Point, Prince Edward Island.  Crazy that we could see so far and not that clear of a day.







Driving on past the Skyline Trail we headed for MacIntosh Brook one of the Park campgrounds. 

It has 3 non-serviced sites, $21 per night taxes in paid either cash in envelope onsite or at the National Park offices which is odd since they are first come first serve so you can't be sure to get a spot if you pay in advance. We did anyway and it worked out. There were washrooms, picnic tables, no showers.

Staying in the park without paying would be difficult however we met people who stayed on a wharf in Cheticamp for a night without any trouble.

Frosty morning - Luckily the van warms up fast and we brought down duvets with us.

We really enjoyed all the windows in the van.

The campground is also the start of a hike along a beautiful stream to waterfalls.

45 minutes return including picture taking.

Buddy getting ready for winter.

Today we headed back to Baddeck via Ingonish on the east side of the National Park.

Great location and view - being sold as is, where is, hurricane straps included... LOL

Black Brook Cove Beach and Waterfalls

Nova Scotia beach sand

Sand Dunes at Ingonish Beach looking towards Keltic Lodge

Following lead car through construction - the 3 campers ahead were a group of travellers

We loved the flexibility of a campervan. The bed was very comfortable, the fridge and freezer where plenty big enough, the 2-burner stove was no problem however there were a few things which ensure we won't be going quite this small. No counter space unless the cover is over the sink and/or cooktop, no space to put bedding unless you through it behind the back seat and remember it's there before opening the backdoors and the toilet was too small. I draw the line when one cheek is hanging off the toilet and outside the actual "room". With the door shut it's claustrophobic..well, we didn't acutally fit to be able to close the door and do any business at the same time. With the door open you need to ensure the sliding door window blind is down and alert the other party not to open the slider until you are done. All doable for a long weekend but certainly not much longer for us.

The back bench was comfortable for sitting and easy chatting with Scott up front. 
He could sit with me in the back comfortably too.
Bench becomes bed at night.

If you like beer and are in the Baddeck area, Big Spruce Brewing is worth a visit. 

Scott enjoyed the several different beers he bought there.

It poured rain most of the day heading back from Baddeck to drop off the rig near Halifax but cleared up just after we got to Helga's (friend from grade and high school). 

She and her husband live in Prospect, just south of Halifax.

Thank you Helga for the wonderful hospitality, fantastic meals and tour of the area.

We went for a walk near Helga and Ed's place - gorgeous.

After a hardy breakfast we headed back to catch the ferry. If you are on this route and have a little extra time a stop at the Fundy Discovery Centre near Truro is a great place to stretch your legs or let any kids run loose (lots of activities for them).

We can see our house from the ferry - sort of.. and you do need to know what to look for.

Church is on the left. The line on the right points to a little yellow spot which is our gable 

through the trees LOL. Fun to see the shore from the water.

It would have been very easy to keep travelling - we sure do miss it. 

Luckily we had a beautiful view and tree glowing in the sunset the night we got home.